Spelunking with Marian Burros

In today's New York Times, Marian Burros has an interesting article sure to interest many a curd nerd. It's all about caved-based affinage, with a particular focus on cheesemakers from the Northeast US. She talks about the aspects of cave-aging that can affect the ripening of a cheese, the trend in the American farmstead cheese industry toward more and more cave-aging, and she also offers tasting notes that compare cave-aged and non-cave-aged versions of the same cheese. And no article about cave-aging would be complete without mention of Mateo Kehler, owner of Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont. Mateo, of course, is the man who took Cabot's Clothbound Cheddar, aged it in his caves, and walked away with the American Cheese Society's Best in Show award for 2006.